Here is a comparison with my old workflow that had flickering, and my new workflow that is flicker free. Open Sequence created video file and PP in iMovie.Open RAW files in Sequence, deflicker, and export video file.However, it has a 15 day free trial and only costs $35 for a license. But there are few bells or whistles or settings to use, and you have to PP in a video editor like iMovie which has much less control than LR. But it is fairly intuitive and I was able to figure it out in short order. Also it is not well documented so making it work requires trial and effort. Nor can you PP with LR afterwards as only a video file is produced. It seems to only work correctly as far as deflickering with RAW and DNG files, which means that Lightroom PP beforehand is not and option. It is a stand-alone app that does little more than compile your photos into a video, but it does the deflickering very well. So far the most promising is called Sequence. I'm currently researching various other apps. ![]() I find the LRTimelapse workflow to be tedious, convoluted, frustrating, and quite frankly it seldom gets the deflicker correct, as in never for me. LRTimelapse piggy-backs onto Lightroom to add time lapse capability. There are some apps and plugins that claim to do it. Unfortunately neither the freeware Time Lapse Assembler app nor iMovie can do any deflickering. Optional, I sometimes import the video into iMovie to do more editing.Use Time Lapse Assembler to compile video from the JPEGs.So I've been researching how to deal with it. ![]() At any rate, let us just say that if you shoot time lapse you will most likely encounter flicker at some point. Some cameras like those from Canon actually hold the Aperture full open so you can use liveview, then when you press the shutter it closes down the aperture to match your setting preference. However, even in full Manual mode cameras occasionally change the images through mechanical errors, inconsistencies, or simply by messing with the apertures during the shoot. To set the frame rate, go to Video menu > Frame rate. VirtualDub will then load all of the images. ![]() Then just go to File > Open, and pick the first image. If you shoot in Aperture mode you will probably have a lot of flicker if the lighting changes significantly, so many or most of us always use full Manual mode. To create a timelapse, you need all of your photos numbered in order, without any gaps in the sequence. Flicker can occur regardless of your camera make. Using a DSLR or mirrorless camera to create time lapse videos can result in that nasty, unwanted effect called flicker.
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